Monday, October 21, 2013

Darts and Pleats- Burda 7255

So I cut out all the pieces for Burda 7255. I decided to cut a couple sizes smaller than the Burda size chart recommends. I measured the pattern pieces, accounted for seams and pleats, and got a whopping ten inches more than the "finished" measurements said I would. I'm not surprised. I've made some non-vintage Burda things in the past and this seems to be the norm with Burda patterns. I know they say there should be "wearing ease" once the garments is made, but my idea of wearing ease isn't almost a whole foot around my mid-section thankyouverymuch. I realize that this blouse is supposed to have that 60s svelte look, but I'd be swimming in a 40+inch waist.
            -side note, I recommend always, always, measuring the patterns pieces before you cut your size. Oftentimes the suggested finished measurements do not correspond to the actual measurements you get when you measure the pieces. Make sure to account for seams, darts, pleats, etc!

After cutting out the pieces I ironed the interfacing to the left side front: (bumpy side down!)

pinned and awaiting
wet cloth application
heat + steam
Ta da!

Next it was time for the bust darts. Remember how in the last post I said there weren't bust darts in this blouse? My bad. There are two pretty small ones.
sewing them
inside of dart
outside of dart
Then it was time to sew the back pleat. This was my first time sewing an inverted pleat. Its not too bad; if you do it, make sure you have an iron handy, it helps, a lot! And marking, mark all pleat lines. Make sure to measure how far down the pleat lines go (or how far up). I think this one was less than 2 inches. The outside of the pleat must be able to open pretty wide.
marking the pleat(s)- there are two additional small ones on either side of the center inverted pleat
the inside, aka wrong side of the inverted pleat, sewn across the top and bottom
center = inverted, sides = additional pleats (this is the right side pictured)

Once the pleats are sewn, the neck edge should be considerably smaller around.

That's all I have for today. Up next is my non-so-favorite-part of blouses- the collar and neck band. More interfacing and ironing.

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