Incense and Peppermints

It is finished! My mod dress is complete. I figured out how to make the bow that goes on the front. I did, however, alter the bow. The pattern calls for a bow whose tails hang down a bit. This didn't really work well with the double knit fabric I chose. So, I made more of a bow-tie than a bow with tails. I think this actually looks better than the bow the pattern called for. After that, all the was left to do was to attach the bow. I had to do this by hand to get it to sit straight. I don't really like sewing by hand, but oh well, its on now. Hemming the dress was actually easier than I excepted considering the fabric I chose.

Pictures! :

Overall, I like this dress. The pattern was easy and versatile. I would make this dress again, maybe next time with a lighter cotton for summer!

Happy Sewing!

Almost there with Simplicity 1609

I've got in a fair amount of sewing on Simplicity 1609. All that's left is the front bow and the hem. I hope the bow isn't hard, I've never made one before. The knit fabric I'm working with probably won't help matters, oh well. I tried the dress on today and it fits! And its very comfortable, definitely a much needed everyday piece. I think I'll wear it with a simple, long-sleeved shirt underneath, nothing with a bow! Want some pictures? Sure you do, here they are:

The mannequin is definitely a smaller cup than I am, the bust darts are quite, ahem...prominent when I tried the dress on. Looks better on, I swear!

not a bad side view for a mod dress, the side slit (sewn) is just barely visible in the middle

not visible, but there are three seams on the back

this was the most time consuming part of the dress so far: the interfacing around the neck and arms holes. I used a light-weight which worked just fine.

So far I've followed than pattern without making many alterations. The only thing I've done differently is omitting the zipper down the back. Its not at all necessary with the knit I'm using. (Plus I hate getting that bump around the butt that a zipper down the back can make).

Happy Sewing!

Modish Dress

I've made progress on Simplicity 1609! Its really an easy pattern, a "jiffy" one in fact. I chose a double knit (at least I think it is a double knit) fabric I picked up at Joanns a while back. Its black with felt polka dots. I wanted a warmer fabric for this one since its so cold here. I've had fun pinning it to my new dressform as I go, making sure everything is fitting together. I chose view B. I like the bow on the front.

All the pattern pieces ready to cut:

See the largest piece? That is the front of the dress. The weird slit you see where the fabric peaks through is closed and sewn together. Its kind of like a big dart, but the top slopes down more towards it. This gives the dress slightly more structured even though the dress itself is very mod, i.e. little structure. 

The other pieces:

The back and front pieces of the dress have several darts. These very pretty easy even though I'm working with a knit fabric. After cutting out and sewing the darts, I sewed the shoulder seams together. Here are a few pictures of the dress so far pinned to the dressform:

Before I started this dress I played around a little with draping (with this fabric) on my dressform. I was going for a sort-of Victorian (maybe overskirt on a bustle gown?) effect:

See what I mean with the front drapes?

Well anyways, Happy Sewing!

Christmas Loot!

Happy New Year! Since we're back from our Christmas vacation, I thought I'd share some of the Christmas sewing loot I received. Aside from the books I'll be highlighting, I got a gift certificate to buy patterns on Etsy, a dressform (yes!), and a neat little sewing kit that organizes all my bobbins, thread, needles, etc.! Now, on to the books! I got 7, yes 7, sewing books all containing grided patterns!

Volia:

From left to right: Authentic Victorian Fashion Patterns by Kristina Harris, Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques by Jill Salen, The Voice of Fashion: 79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns with Instructions and Fashion Plates by Frances Gimble, Women's Wear of the 1920s: With Complete Patterns by Ruth S. Countryman, Pattern Making: Drafting 1930s Lingerie, Blouses, Skirts, and Sportswear Fashion by Gertrude Mason, The Edwardian Modiste: 85 Authentic Patterns with Instructions, Fashion Plates, and Period Sewing Techniques by Frances Grimble, 59 Authentic Turn-of-the-Century Fashion Patterns by Kristina Harris.

Whew!

Each book is a gem! I've looked through the 1920s one the most. Its great! Remember how I said Vol. 2 of Patterns of Fashion is lacking in good, iconic, 1920s patterns? Well this book more than makes up for it! So many great patterns, including underthings. The 30s book is quite methodical. The instructions contained really help one to understand how to make a nicely-fitted pattern/garment. There are four different methods detailed for making 1930s clothing. The Victorian and Edwardian books, have sooooo many patterns, underthings included, excluding corsets. The corset book has patterns for corsets dating from the 1750s to 1918 I believe. Can not wait to make one of these patterns. Of course these patterns are taken from actual museum pieces so I'll have to adjust them to fit my more modern, ahem, shape :)

In other news, I'll be starting to sew a new dress. 1960s this time, from a Simplicity reproduction pattern:

(sewing.patternreview.com)

Happy Sewing!

Finito!!! - Burda 7255

Wheww! I finished the blouse. Since my last post I had to attach the bottom band, sew buttonholes, and the buttons. The buttonholes went surprisingly well this time. The blouse came out a tad small, especially in the arms, but I think it will still look good with a pencil skirt, or skinny pants.

Here it is:

I still need a bottom button, will have to make a Joanns trip. 

pining the bottom (waist?) band

attached! The pattern instructions said to sew this part by hand, but I couldn't really see the advantage in sewing by hand since the top is turned in and sewn. 

Marking the buttonholes. The pattern didn't specify how far apart to space them. I measured the length from top to bottom and divided by 5 (buttons). I got about 4 inches apart. Then I had to sew the buttons by hand because yesterday when I tried the button stitch on my sewing machine I broke the needle :( Thank goodness for replacement needles!

The right side of bottom band is slightly lower than the left side. Oh well, if I wear it tucked in no one will know!

Yay, all finished! I'm thinking of doing some research (historical clothing) posts next since I'm between projects now. It takes me so long to decide what to make next aye aye aye!

Sleeves

Before I detail the sleeve attachment on Burda 7255, I have to gush about Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion v. 2. I ordered it when we ordered a crate for our new puppy. It got here today! Its sooooo cool! I want to make everything in it, but will definitely have to build my sewing skills before I attempt any of the  pre 1920s patterns. For anyone who doesn't know, this book is a book of scaled dress patterns 1860-1940 (only British/European). They are very detailed and heavily researched. Just by glancing through the patterns, it looks like Ms. Arnold took a lot of the designs from specimens at the Victoria and Albert Museum. My only complaint is that the patterns from the 20s/30s are, well, odd. They don't seem to represent what you'd call the quintessential looks of these decades. Arnold explains this by saying that during these periods (and the WWI era) a lot of dresses were taken apart and updated for the new styles to save money. Makes sense, but still kinda stinks if you like the 20s/30s. Oh well, there are plenty of other resources for these decades. The patterns from 1860-1920 are FANTASTIC. Seriously. Arnold even includes the color and content of the fabrics used, as well as the trim(s). And she includes recommendations for undergarments, although no patterns for these :( Nonetheless, its cool, really cool, if you're into historical clothing.

In other news, I attached the sleeves on Burda 7255 today! Yeah! No too bad really, pretty basic.

marks for ease stitching

marks for sleeve dart

ease stitching

sleeve dart

sewn sleeve seam

sleeve hem, I did about 3/4inch

now its starting to look like a blouse

Next I have to sew the band around the bottom hemline. I really like the idea of the giving the bottom of the blouse some structure. After that are the buttonholes. Poo. I don't like buttonholes. 

Baring any unforeseen complications, I can definitely see myself using this pattern again. Looking at the pictures,  I think this pattern would even be good for a short jacket.

Anywhos, Happy Sewing!

Collar Confusion and an Outfit Post

Sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've been busy preparing for our new puppy! I'm sure he'll show up in a few posts, probably sleeping while I sew. Remember how I said that I finally got the collar on Burda 7255 attached. Hahahaha. Not even close (then). I think I've finally got it on now. Suffice to say I'm not in love with Burda's instructions. 

It turns out you have to turn back the facing on both sides of the buttonhole area. The interfaced side and the non-interfaced side:

interfaced side

This is sewed onto the back interfacing of the collar. You can see that in the picture in the lower right corner. 

bigger view of the same thing

Then I had to iron the heck out of this area while trying not to wrinkle the collar. Not an easy task.

Until finally:

I'm saving the ta-da until I'm sure this actually works. I've ripped seams so much I'm crossing my fingers the interfacing on the collar holds up. I know, I know, I should make mock-ups. Maybe for Christmas I'll ask for a bolt of muslin! But seriously, this pattern makes me think I'll be making some mock-ups from now on, especially if I have to use any expensive fabrics!

To my next order of business...remember the blue taffeta skirt I posted about? I finally got to wear it! We had tickets to the symphony last night.

a bit blurry, but you get the idea

circle skirt: made by me

unseen petticoat: Modcloth

Victorian-esque blouse: H&M

not pictured patent leather pumps: JcPenneys

It was fun to wear this skirt complete with petticoat. I even curled my hair, not in any vintage style persay. We were running behind on time. Maybe it would be sort-of 40s ish if I'd combed it out.

That's all I have for now,

Wear a petticoat! Its fun!

Collar, More Pleats, Redoing- Burda 7255

So the instructions for the whole collar area of Burda 7255 aren't very clear. AND there aren't very many pictures on Burda patterns, big problem for me because I need the pictures. Oh how I need the pictures. I've only completed a few sections of the instructions since my last post because I've had a heck of a time figuring out how the collar on this blouse works. I even took out a collared shirt of my husbands' to get some perspective. The back facing of the collar is attached at the edges of the two front pieces of the blouse, not the shoulder seams like I thought. So I had to rip those seams and resew. Also, the collar is apparently only half the length I thought, something I think the pattern failed to specify, I'd have to check.

Anywho, I had to iron interfacing to the back facing pieces:

I think I got the piece too wet because it took a long time to dry. On the upside, the interfacing is firmly attached.

Here's me attaching the back facing to the incorret side of the front piece :p

I used a zigzag stitch on this part as well as some of the other seams of the blouse. I like to think of the zigzag stitch as the poor man's answer to a serger, it strengths the garment and helps fraying.

There were some more pleats at the bottom of the front pieces:

two little ones on each side

Not pictured is the interfacing being attached to the collar, my bad.

Here are the collar seams being sewed:

Three of the seams are nice and neat and turned inward. The last one just has to be sewed with the seams and fraying bits hanging out. Zigzag stitch it!

And finally the collar attached:

The top edge is the nasty bits edge. You can see the inverted pleat just south of the collar.

I think I'm going to like this blouse. Now am I going to like it on me? That is the question. I draped it over myself yesterday, and yep, its big. We'll see what its like the farther I get. I may need to tailor the garment a bit. 

That's all I have for today, happy sewing!

Current Project, All Caught Up!

I'm all caught up with posting past projects. My posts form now on will be about works-in-progress. I've made dresses and skirts, but never a blouse. So when I found found this burda pattern

I had to get it. And then I sat on it for about a year. I bought a couple fabrics for it, but didn't have the time to make it. Now I do, and I'm going to do it in a red cotton. I'm going to make version B; I really like that band around the bottom.

This pattern interests me because it makes me think of the mod-svelte 60s look (think Twiggy), but its also very Jackie-O.

I imagine the general shape will be like this blouse from modcloth:

Or perhaps this 60s blouse at the Met:


What is distinct to me about this kind of blouse is the lack of bust darts. I think this gives the blouse that quintessential 60s look.


Well that's all I have for now, stayed tuned!